Claridge's has grown considerably in recent years, but the hotel's ArtSpace Café and Bakery on Brook's Mews, Mayfair, is the part The Spectator's Tanya Gold singles out as keeping things grounded. Her review describes a café and a bakery that favour real food over social media spectacle.

The café

Gold describes the ArtSpace Café as a long, pale, well-lit room in marble, wood and leather. On the Saturday she writes about, the tables held families with children alongside people working on laptops. The paintings on the walls are for sale.

Her view of the food is that it is workman's food souped up, or Mayfair food made bigger. Dishes and prices she mentions:

Hamburger, £16
Granola with Greek yoghurt, berries and honey, £10
Crêpe filled with Gruyère cheese and ham, £16
Croque-monsieur, £14

The crêpe, she writes, is immense and cannot be finished. The croque-monsieurs she calls a glut of white bread. Omelettes, salads and sandwiches are also on the menu, though she skipped them.

The bakery

For pudding, Gold heads to Claridge's Bakery, which she says rejects the hotel-bakery habit of making products for Instagram. Her verdict is that these are real buns, and that all of those she tried were marvellous. The prices she lists:

Iced finger, £4
Iced fancy, £4
Jammy dodger tart, £5
Walnut whip, £5
Belgian bun, £5
Bakewell tart, £5

The bakery also does sandwiches, sausage rolls, quiches and bread. A bloomer and a granary loaf are £6 each, and a French stick is £4. Gold calls the French stick a very good one.

Her conclusion is that this is a real bakery, in Mayfair, and that she was stunned by it.