Rosi, the new restaurant at the Beaumont in Mayfair, opened at the beginning of October under the hotel's new culinary director, chef Lisa Goodwin-Allen. The Upcoming reports that it replaces The Colony Grill, with a refreshed look and a menu built around traditional English food.

The setting

The Beaumont sits down a hidden alley in a central part of London, which The Upcoming says keeps noise levels low and the atmosphere private and unhurried. The name is reflected in the rosy accents in the fabrics, artwork and flowers. The interiors are described as evoking a Parisian brasserie, with drawings mounted on the walls and printed on the menus. There is little natural light, but the room is said to feel alive by day and in the evening. Rosi serves breakfast, lunch and dinner.

The Upcoming notes that gradual changes since CEO Stuart Procter joined the hotel have steered it in a more contemporary direction, and Goodwin-Allen's arrival is one of them.

The menu

The à la carte is generously portioned and suited to sharing, ordering individually or going for a full feast. Sections cover:

  • Snacks, including chipolata sausages and hash browns
  • Appetisers, caviar and oysters, and salads
  • Mains from the land and sea
  • Family favourites leaning Mediterranean, such as Neapolitan pizza and pasta puttanesca

Among the mains are cuts from the coals, including a dry-aged Lake District sirloin and a Hereford fillet. There are also European dishes such as chicken Kyiv, Dover Sole (grilled or Meunière) and corn-fed chicken Diane. The Upcoming singled out the steamed lamb suet pudding, a less common dish on modern menus, and the pan-roasted halibut with grapes, cucumber and tarragon sauce.

Theatre at the table

Service comes with some dining room theatre. The old fashioned pork pie is sliced on a trolley by the table and served with pickles, mustard and chutney. The flamed seasonal sponge is finished tableside, and the cream spooned over it melts on contact. There is also a build-your-own Rosi Sundae, which can lean towards fruit or chocolate.

The wine

The wine list is dominated by France and Italy, with New World bottles and some English wines alongside. The Upcoming's reviewer chose a Dedicado Tupungato Vineyard Chardonnay 2019, described as slightly creamy, with notes of honey and tropical fruit.

Booking

Rosi is at the Beaumont, Brown Hart Gardens, London W1K 6TF. To book, call 020 7499 1001. The Upcoming suggests it suits business lunches, casual catch-ups and dates.

Photo: James Wood, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Geograph.